Find this look on video at Our YouTube channel.
How many times do you get a guest in your seat saying, “I have a round face? What suits me?”
A lot of our guests want us to inspire them and to advise them. The number one reason we lose guests is boredom, so to keep them excited. We need to keep up-to date on educating ourselves. Not just that but knowing what is truly the best option for a face shape/hair type. Confidence to execute these looks will give us a step up behind the chair.
Speed cutting haircuts.
In this blog we are practising speed cutting.
This is a good way to get our guests haircuts done quick but, professionally. Perfect for you busy stylists having to squeeze clientele in. Not only that, but great to help with the issues we have when lockdowns lift, busy periods and we have an over-haul of bookings.
Tools used in this haircut.
Get prepared and get together the tools you need. Our tools used in the video are listed below.
- Razor - TRIrazor
- Scissors – Mizutani
- Texturizing scissors – Mizutani Acro leaf wide
- Cutting comb- cesibon x Mizutani orange
- Dry refining comb- 105 Buey pro comb
- Blow-dryer- Paul Mitchell neuro blow-dryer
- Paddle brush- Ergo diamond head brush
- Round brush- Ergo er53ci
- Water spray
- Sectioning clips- YS park
Hair cut overview.
This cut is versatile and a commonly used hairstyle in our salons.
The fringe is good to soften and elongate, complimenting rounder-face-shapes. Long layers on a round face shape can create the illusion of a shorter face – not what we want. I like to keep layers a couple of inches past the chin to draw the eye down. We have a deep side part, that softens the face and creates volume on the top. This creates height and elongates the look. Making it a perfect balanced haircut for a rounder face shape.
- Fringe is brought over, focusing on diagonal lines.
- We're creating pieces that drop 2” below the jaw line.
- On the sides we have horizontal sections at one length with a soft razor layer.
- In the back we have a blunt line from the occipital down.
- Above the occipital in the back, hair is brought up and layered, cutting parallel to the floor.
Sectioning the haircut.
Keep your sections clean and precise- it’s the foundation of a good haircut!
We have a division line that runs from one lower mastoid process (behind ear), over the crown, to the other lower mastoid process. Creating a division between the front and the back.
This is important because we have two different densities. The sides are weaker in shape and form than the back. The two different densities NEED different cutting techniques.
From the division line we choose where our side part sits. This is dependent on your client's needs. We have chosen to put our deep part in the left side.
Check out our drawing board image below for a clear visual on how we sectioned off.
Let's start cutting!!
In our large back section, we split the hair with a vertical line straight down the middle and comb apart.
Then we take our sectioning from this line at the occipital bone on a slight diagonal forwards over to the lower mastoid process. This is repeated on both sides and the upper sections are clipped away.
We chose to go with a midi-length, this works well with the elongation as well as having a face framing layer 2” below the jaw.
The hair in this lower section is cut blunt, in a straight square line in the back. This technique retains a little more length around the ears. This is because the area around the sides is weaker. You can cut more on a round if you desire with this haircut, depending on the needs of your guest.
Leave this section one length.
Top back section(s)
Comb one of the sections up, in one large section. We are working with no guide line on this section. We bring the hair up 180 degrees vertically, with our fingers parallel to the division line, and club cut at the desired length.
We then repeat this process on the opposite side bringing some of the previous section in as a guide.
Comb the section down and check for symmetry and balance.
Cut off any disconnection/overhang that is longer than the midi-length guide line previously cut.
TIP- This part is optional. Sometimes on finer hair we like to leave the base-line fuller for a stronger shape. Sometimes on thicker hair texturizing can help reduce bulk. Giving the hair a better form.
We decided to texturize a little. Section away the previous upper-back sections, and work on the section below the occipital bone.
TIP- texturizing with a methodical approach, keeping consistent will avoid over texturizing.
We used our dry texturizing scissors in a vertical forward motion. Sliding out pieces of hair to reduce a little bulk and add a little texture underneath.
Cutting the heavier side. (right)
Take a horizontal section above the ear to cut in our guide line, connecting the back to the front. Work methodically up the side-section. Sectioning off parallel to the previous and following the original cut guide until you reach the fringe area.
Clip away your triangular fringe section and comb the remaining hair from the heavier section into your guide and cut.
Cutting the smaller side section. (left)
TIP- keep the hair at an even moisture level. Always top up by spraying water. This gives us control, slip and an even elasticity.
Repeat the horizontal sectioning pattern used on the heavier side. following the guide at the same length and cut.
Texturizing – getting creative.
Now you have mastered your shape it’s time to personalise.
Using our Tri-razor we can choose the density we would like to texturize. The blades remove 100%, 50% or 25%.
For our face framing layer were using the 100% option for a strong textured line. You can carve the hair out where it lives with the tri-razor. Making it easy for you to visualise the line you need to cut. We chose to go 2” below jaw and to softly chip out a diagonal backwards line.
Then we stand facing the side of the head (left still), combing the full side section down at low graduation. On the 25% blade, angle the tri-razor diagonal back. This will avoid deep cutting into the hair and give an internal soft layer working short too long. Use strokes to remove hair and create a gentle texture.
We all love a good fringe!
Take the entire triangular section of the fringe and over direct to whole section to the left. Using the 100% tri-razor option, take strokes through the hair cutting it at a desired length from short-long. The strokes create a softness in our line avoiding a blocky effect.
Finally comb down to see the angle and re-adjust if needed.
TIP- refining the cut isn’t only on wet, hair will fall differently and need more work once styled so perfecting the look happens dry too.
Layering the heavy side.
Like on our left side, we need to repeat the process of carving away the face-framers. Then working on the internal texture with the 25% option. This side is heavier, and may need a little more texture.
Styling the haircut.
Every good hair cut is amplified with a beautiful style. Get this right and you guest is a walking advertisement of your work.
Styling products used -
- Paul Mitchell invisible wear volume whip – beautifully airy mousse for lightweight volume.
- Paul Mitchell invisible wear memory shaper – Slippy gel consistency for longer hold and shine.
- Paul Mitchell Neuro Protect Heat CTRL Iron Thermal Protection Hairspray – heat protection and hold.
Cocktail the two products to combine the benefits of both. Use throughout mid-lengths and ends.
Use an extra pump of the invisible wear volume whip to achieve extra volume and lift in the root area.
Blow-drying the haircut.
Use the Paul Mitchell Neuro grip hair dryer on high heat level 2, and ergo mini paddle brush. Starting with a flat wrap technique blowing back in the opposite direction to create a smooth lift and remove excess water.
Once the hair is 80% dry use the Neuro Protect Heat CTRL Iron Thermal Protection Hairspray. Using a large ergo round brush, smooth add lift and a bend in the hair.
Refining the haircut.
Now the cut is perfectly dried and styled we can move on to the fine tuning and complete the masterpiece.
For dry texturizing we used the 50% option of the tri-cut razor. I like this because the blade is more exposed than the 25% option, so it's great for dry cutting. I then connected up pieces I wanted to, detailed and softened the look.
Tip- Refinement can be personal to your style, or your client's needs. Don’t be afraid to use your creative flare!
And voila! You should have your finished look. Thanks for reading.