Today were blogging about a fun simple twist on a classic wedge shape haircut.
We're working some parts with scissors and some parts with the Tri-razor for different textures in the haircut. This video is taken from our YouTube channel freesaloneducation. We regularly update free hair education for you guys to keep inspired and in-the-know. Check out the video below for a full visual on out blog post.
Section the wedge haircut
Every good hair cut starts with clean mapped out sectioning. This gives us guidance and control throughout the cut – plus more precision.
Matt combs the hair back and starts with his part on the left side above the parietal ridge working back. Then he decides to separate the two densities of front/back. Working from the high point of the part and following the hair line behind the ear. He repeats on the opposite side and then splits the center back with a diagonal forward just above the occipital.
Wedge cuts need thought
Think about the shape you're looking to achieve against the shape of the head, check out the side profile and jaw line of your guest.
The back is important because it is a very stacked up haircut. The hair will stack where the curvature of the head comes away from you. Matt talks about why he sectioned the way he did and how removing weight at different angles can affect his haircut.
Start cutting in that wedge shape
First take vertical channel section in the back and decide the length and angle you want to cut in the hair.
Then with your next section methodically pull over to the halfway previous. A good indicator if your hand positioning is correct is your thumb on the hand that you hold the section with should point in the direction you're travelling. Flip your hand under or over depending if your left or right-handed. This will change positions when you work on different sides. Keep following the guide methodically to previous around the head.
Over direction sometimes happens naturally.
Matt notices when he reaches the corners of this bottom section the edges are longer than the middle.
This is because even though you're following the same over direction to previous, The head curves away at the corners. Meaning, the head shape causes more over direction in those corners. If you look at the hair cut you can see a curved weight line that gets longer towards the face.
Work on the crown of the haircut
Take a vertical channel section in the middle of this crown section. This will be your guide line again.
Again, Matt takes his sectioning halfway to previous, working from the center back to the edges. You see the weight builds towards the edges of these sections setting us up in a wedged shape at the back. Once the whole back section is finished, we start to think about cutting the sides of the wedge haircut.
Cutting the sides of the wedge haircut.
On the sides of the cut were deciding to work with the Tri-razor. We want to create a different texture and diffusion in the cut.
First, we work on the side with the part, this is because it is weaker. We draw a diagonal back following the jawline. We then look to see our guide combing the hair down. With the 100% side of the razor, we follow the line we want to create swiping away length. Then, we pull sections into the guide and continue to cut with the razor. Once we reach the corner where the hairline is weak, we over direct it back to the guide and cut.
The opposite side of the haircut
Now were working on the larger portion of the sides and work two techniques in here.
The bottom guide is mimicked in exactly the same manner as the other side, using our 100% cutting edge. We follow this methodically up the head until we cross the parietal ridge/ round of the head. Once we're hitting this point our sectioning is the same except, we use our 25% cutting side of our Tri-razor. This creates texture and breaks up weighty shape.
Now to the finish!
We need to blow and style the hair prior to the personalizing part of our cut.
Matt goes in with sculpting foam for a gentle hold in his style. He flat wraps the hair to get it sitting right and then goes in with the irons to smooth it out. To add a nice little edge on the cut, Matt decides to cut in a curved ''v'' shape in the neck with his scissors. We hope you like the final look!