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Cutting hair with a razor.
Today we are going to show you how to cut hair with our razor. We're using the Tri-razor and we want to show you why this tool is a great piece of kit.
We have 3 different sides for cutting and it is a triangular shaped razor. The different sides have different amounts of hair it cuts away. For example, the edges are 100, 50 or 25% removal of hair. This means you have different options for different techniques and hair types giving you a 3in1 tool.
Think about sectioning the short haircut.
It's important to map out the haircut. The basis of any good hair cut is done with solid foundations to organize the outcome. How do we determine our sectioning for the short razor haircut?
Matt decided the best way to start is to determine the part. He shows you how you can make sectioning easier by combing the hair in the direction you want it to go. This means you won't be fighting with the hair when creating parts and you can easily section off. Then matt uses the end of the part to create the top section using a curved sectioning towards the parietal ridge. This gives us an off-center section. Matt then uses the point towards the back of the part to create a third line working on a diagonal towards behind the ear.
TIP- Matt is showing you how to create symmetry and asymmetrical shapes in this sectioning technique.
TIP- Fresh blade in the razor is key along with a conditioning spray for sharp blades, slip and slide.
Begin cutting the short haircut.
Matt is beginning on the larger section of the haircut. This will determine the length you take the rest of the cut at.
Matt is taking diagonal forwards sections at the hair line. He wants the hair to fall forwards. He points out the importance of the angle you cut for creating different shapes/looks. Look at where the cut line will start and end. This will indicate if you're more graduated or layered. A longer start point = graduation a shorter start points = more layers. Matt wants to go even for even weight distribution. He uses the 100% cutting side and slides razor through.
Using a razor means speedy cutting
Matt demonstrates the speed of the razor and brings the previous section into his next following around the head. This is a travelling guide.
Matt visualizes a mullet look whilst he is cutting and decides to use this in his look. He demonstrates a razor technique by swiping the hair away and as he reaches the bottom, giving up to preserve length in the back. He also moves the mannequin head around the way he would on a guest in the salon.
Short cut with symmetry? Or A-symmetry?
When matt reaches his final section of the short haircut, he needs to decide what to do with the cut. It will determine his next sectioning.
If matt wants to work with symmetry, he would pause on this corner and work around the head like his first side. Meaning matt would still have a travelling guide. Instead, he decides he wants to create an asymmetric look. So, he is keeping his section stationary and pulling all the hair back to this point. This retains length around the front.
Work on the top of the short haircut.
At this point, we want to cut the basic shape up top. We put the razor down and decide the scissors are the best tool for this.
Matt begins by taking a horizontal section at the crown area. The hair is cut connecting the back to the top, he points cuts to soften and blur harder lines. The scissors are the best choice for this area as there's mor control. The hair is over directed back to keep length around the face. This cut looks great on hair with a curly texture too. Matt dries and smooths the hair for the refinement stage of the cut.
Detail your short haircut once dried.
The detailing is now done with scissors too. Matt decides to use a slide cutting technique with his scissors half open and working on the surface of the look.
Matt also wants to see the hair sit back a little, instead of over-crowding the face. He likes to point cut into the hair by taking a section, fanning out the hair and cutting into the hair without cutting any lines. This will remove bulky weight from the ends without cutting off length.
Cut the mullet tail with the razor
Matt decided he liked the yellow piece in the back of the hair so he did not want to remove it. He positions it out the way to work on later.
Then matt pinches hair and decides to slide hair away with his Tri-razor. He goes in with his 50% cutting side. This is because he is cutting dry hair and the 50% side has the most exposed part of the blade. The blades are super sharp and remove weight and create texture.
Soften the shape of the haircut.
Matt then decides to pull out the side of the short hair and cuts into it to soften the shape.
At this point matt decides he wants to work with a fringe to give the look more lift and energy on the heavier side. He takes a round section at the hairline for a fringe. The decides the angle he wants to cut and pulls it over. Then bringing every section up to his first he uses his tri razor to cut the length.
Style some texture in
Matte decide to go back in with the blow-dry and expand the shape of the cut by blowing the layers about.
He dries back the area around the face and give it lift. He then works on putting height and texture into the hair to expand the shape. After, he finishes with Paul Mitchell spray wax to give a flexi light textured hold to the look. Finish with some spray and voila! You have a short-textured mullet cut with lots of cutting techniques in there.